My Camino de Santiago – Travel Diary – 2. From Estrella to Burgos
Available in: Italiano
After the first stages of our Camino de Santiago characterized by storms, life lessons (I talked about it here) and destroyed feet we say that the mood of our journey begins to improve.
Recapitulating, we had crossed the Pyrenees under a storm, arrived “triumphant” to Roncesvalles and Pamplona. We had climbed the Alto del Perdon up to Puente la Reina where we spent the night.
Estella – Diary Way of Santiago
Passing through one of the most beautiful bridges along the way you leave this beautiful Basque village and you also leave the river Arga. From here begins a gentle ups and downs between wheat valleys and some vineyards, all dotted with medieval villages perched on the hills.
I begin to feel the fatigue, some muscle pain, perhaps due to the effort made to reach Pamplona at all costs. But getting to Estella is a delight for the eyes and for the soul.
The Estella of the way is called so for the miracle of the stars but I know it because it made us discover the true soul of our journey, sharing. Cold and tired, we are greeted in a donative hostel from Rosa who promptly offers us a hot soup and lots of laughs.
In the evening we are joined by other Italians and the day could only end with a beautiful Amatriciana. Maybe I could not teach her how to cook pasta, but the warmth and joy of that evening remain among my best memories.
Los Arcos – Diary of the Camino de Santiago
After Estella every pilgrim has only one thought and objective: the source of wine!
The famous source that produces wine as well as water. This miraculous tap is located in Irache, a few kilometers from Estella.
That was the first day we woke up early, happy to start another day of walking thinking we would have breakfast with some wine offered.
Instead, alas, perhaps because it was too early to drink wine, perhaps because it was harvest time, the tap did not deliver a single drop of alcohol. Despite the disillusionment we proceed among the sweet valleys full of grapes still to be harvested and already cut wheat fields.
Arriving in Los Arcos we could not even continue our daily ritual. Look for the village shop, buy food and cook in the albergue. It was Sunday, all the shops closed except the church. So, since it seemed like an unlucky day, the best idea was to participate in the pilgrim’s blessing.
It will prove to be profitable for our trip, since it has driven away the clouds that have been threatening rain for days and has given us new traveling companions. .
Logroño – Diary Way of Santiago
We start with a new energy, perhaps the blessing, perhaps the new companions, for sure we were beginning to take pleasure. The day begins with a spectacular sunrise that leaves us paralyzed to admire it in the midst of the usual fields of wheat.
Probably whispered the day that awaited us, to discover Templar churches, the Borgia’s tombs and parties in the Spanish capital of wine.
Può essere! Ma se cerchi un viaggio che ti faccia crescere, che ti faccia emozionare oltre quel semplice selfie con il monumento alle tue spalle e che non dimenticherai per tutta la vita ecco cosa devi fare:
Najera – Diary Way of Santiago
The renowned exterminated vineyards of the Rioja become the predominant landscape. We have grapes to never finish around us. They are developed everywhere but in an orderly, linear manner, and tell a very rooted agricultural tradition in the region.
In Roman times the wines produced here were going to intoxicate the feasts of the capital. And we were lucky enough to taste them at the Logroño Wine Festival!
Now we know that tapas, pinchos, and lots and lots of wine are the basic ingredients for a fiesta!
Redecilla del Camino – Diary Way of Santiago
From Najera the road continues to untangle in the middle of the vineyards, the woods, the wooden roofs and the streams that followed the route are now far away. Now you get closer to the mesetas and the passage is gradual.
By walking you notice every difference, but everything happens slowly, step by step you leave the vines and enter Castile. Here the landscape becomes almost monotonous, or at least dominated by two colors: wheat and sky.
San Juan de Ortega – Diary Way of Santiago
In reality that was just a taste of what awaited us in the future. We were already getting used to the intense sun, the white gravel road, and the intense blue sky, which surrounded the yellow monotony of the fields.
When we come across a forest of tall oaks. We walk alone in the midst of what seems to be an immense army of trees, on what should have been a highway but it is still only a building site, or rather a wound that cuts the exterminated body of this forest.
The road does not seem to end never, but in the late afternoon we arrive in the small village of San Juan de Ortega. Where we discover the conformation of most villages along the way. The village is actually formed by the important monastery, an albergue, and a shop. All around is woods.
Burgos – Diary Way of Santiago
The following morning, after the most sleepless night due to the “comrade”, the path gave us the emotion of walking in the dark, with fog, in the middle of the woods.
At the first light of dawn, the mist began to thin out and we realize that we are in Atapuerca, the place where the famous prehistoric hominid was found. Unfortunately, once again we arrive too early to visit the museum dedicated to him and we continue in view of the first big city, Burgos.
Before arriving at the historical center of the city we were almost slapped by the suburbs. Not because it’s bad or degraded. Here, the eyes that until recently had become accustomed to crossing the horizon to the horizon must stop at buildings, asphalt, gates, buses, cars.
And you no longer hear the “Buen Camino!” Of the old man who crosses the street smiling. Here you go back to being an anonymous in the midst of the noise of the city.
Yet the medieval center is a wonderful place, Burgos turned out to be a nice surprise. The most beautiful cathedral of the walk, the wide and populated squares, the winding streets, but also the tapas bars make it lively and welcoming.
And I realize that maybe it was just the shock of being in a familiar context, the frenzy daily.